Doctors gave me 3 years and it's been 9. I set a goal last year to catch 365 waves and tripled that, too. This year my goal is to catch 2026 waves with my 13 year old son and hit double digits in my fight against terminal brain cancer - we've paddled nearly every day and we're both closing in on 300. And I'm 7 months away from my cancer-versary. Well on pace to do both. I've set some surfing goals, too. Last year I learned how to read waves better and broke some bad habits in paddling technique

Kookery exposed, lol. The wave hit a shallow sandbar and got steep quick right as I popped up and I wasn't set up for that paddling straight, lol. I tried to shuffle fast to get my weight on the tail to keep the nose up enough to survive entry and try to salvage a bottom turn but yeah... i literally stepped one foot off the board and did a splits-like leg maneuver as my front foot stayed on the board and I tried to fall into the back of the wave and not over the falls onto the board. I remember

There's a different kind of peace that shows up when you start your day in nature. . . #surfing #surfer #surf #surfeveryday #Gratitude | Imperial Beach Dad

Fishing at Imperial Beach Pier | Imperial Beach Pier

Sunny Day! ☀️ Imperial Beach Pier ☀️☀️ | Imperial Beach Pier